PRECISION HOROLOGICAL COMPONENT MANUFACTURING

Custom Watch Case OEM & ODM Manufacturing

We machine watch cases from 26 to 50 mm in 316L/904L steel, Grade 5 titanium and CuSn8 bronze, to 3 to 50 ATM. Send a drawing, a CAD file, or a sample — you get a DFM review and an itemised quote in 24 hours, with MOQ and lead time stated up front instead of at the end of the page.

316L · 904L · Ti-6Al-4V · CuSn8
26–50 mm cases · 3-piece to monobloc
MOQ 100 pcs pilot · 300 pcs serial
Sample 7–14 d revision · 15–25 d new
Production 45–60 d after approval
ISO 9001:2015 Certified Facility 100% Bilateral NDA Protected RoHS & REACH Compliant Alloys
5-AXIS SWISS CNC MILLING 5-Axis CNC milling of precision custom watch case at Fullion facility
High-Precision CNC Case Machining
Materials: 316L / 904L / Ti-6Al-4V / Bronze Tolerances: ±0.005 mm
PURCHASING SPECIFICATIONS

What We Can Make, and Where Your Brief Needs Sign-Off

Each line is a case-level decision you can put in front of your buyer. Standard is quoted from existing programmes and proven processes. Custom means new programming on the same processes. Review means we will not commit until we have seen your drawing, movement or test specification — treat it as a question we owe you an answer on, not a refusal.

SpecificationStandard optionsCustomEngineering review required
Case material316L stainless steel · 904L stainless steel · Ti-6Al-4V titanium · CuSn8 bronzeOther alloys on requestReviewForged carbon, zirconia ceramic, and any alloy supplied without a mill test report
Diameter & thickness26–50 mm diameter · 8–18 mm thicknessAsymmetric lug angles, hooded lugs, bullhead offsetsReviewOutside 26–50 mm, or any case below 8 mm with a screw-down crown
Case architecture3-piece (bezel / mid-case / back) · 2-piece screw-back · monoblocMixed architecture, internal rotating bezelReviewSealing stacks above 50 ATM, or any architecture without a proven gasket path
CrystalFlat · Domed · Double-domed · Box sapphire, 1.5–3.0 mm, single or multi-ARCustom curvature, tinted sapphireReviewCurvature below 200 mm radius or thickness over 3.0 mm
BezelFixed · 120-click unidirectional diver · inner rotatingCustom knurl, coin edge, ceramic or sapphire insertReviewNon-standard click counts, or inserts requiring new moulds
Crown & pushersPush-pull · Screw-down 4–7 mm, with or without crown guardsPump and screw-down chronograph pushersReviewCrowns outside 4–7 mm, or pushers on cases rated above 20 ATM
CasebackScrew-down solid · Screw-in with gasket · Exhibition sapphireEngraved serials, custom logos, display-back retaining ringsReviewSnap-fit backs on any case rated above 5 ATM
Surface finishingZaratsu mirror · Linear / radial satin · Micro-bead blast · PVD · DLCTwo-tone masking, hand-aged patina, custom texturesReviewColour matching across batches — always settled against a physical limit sample
Movement fitmentETA 2824 · Sellita SW200 / SW500 · NE88 · Miyota 9015 / 8xxx · NH35 · Ronda quartzOther calibres, spacer rings, custom rotor clearanceReviewAny calibre without a movement drawing and stem height specification
Water resistance3 / 5 / 10 / 20 / 30 / 50 ATM rated and pressure-tested per lotIntermediate ratings, helium escape valveReviewAbove 50 ATM, or any rating that has to survive ISO 6425 as a complete watch

Nothing in this table is a blanket capability claim. Diameters, thicknesses and interfaces are confirmed against your drawing during DFM review, and the confirmed values go into the quote — not into a marketing page.

QUOTE INPUTS & PROCESS

What to Send Us, and What Happens Next

A quote is only as specific as the brief behind it. The five things below are what an estimator actually needs; everything else can be settled after the first number comes back.

STEP 01

Send the brief

2D drawing, 3D CAD file, or a physical sample. NDA is signed before any file moves.

STEP 02

DFM review & quote

We flag what will not machine, propose alloy and finishing alternatives, and return an itemised quote within 24 hours.

STEP 03

Sample

A CNC metal sample in your hand, with the real weight, finish and tolerances — not a render.

STEP 04

Mass production

Serial run against the approved sample, with per-finish batches tracked separately.

STEP 05

Inspection & shipping

100% pressure and air-decay testing, optical inspection, then packing to your requirement.

Required before we can price

  • 2D drawing or 3D file — STEP, IGES, SLDPRT, 3DM, DXF, or a dimensioned PDF
  • Movement calibre — model and stem height, so case and dial depths are set correctly
  • Target quantity — pilot and serial volumes, and how many finish variants
  • Material — 316L, 904L, titanium, bronze, or an alloy we have to source
  • Finish and colour — polished, satin, PVD colour code, or a physical reference

Send if you have it

  • Water resistance target — 3 to 50 ATM, and whether ISO 6425 applies to the assembled watch
  • Test or certification requirements — your own protocol, or the market you are selling into
  • Packaging — pouch, box, or bulk, and any insert or label requirement
  • Delivery destination — determines the shipping terms we quote
  • Target retail price — lets us tell you early where the cost has to land

If you only have a photograph and a retail price point, send that. We reverse-engineer the sample with 3D optical CMM scanning and rebuild the CAD model before quoting — the DFM report will tell you what the photo cannot.

ORDER TERMS

MOQ, Lead Time and Tooling — What Is Counted Against What

Two things decide whether a quote is usable: what the minimum is counted against, and when the clock starts. Both are answered below in the form you can paste into a purchase order — including the two questions buyers ask first: whether sample pieces count toward the minimum, and whether tooling is a separate charge.

ItemHow it is countedValue and starting condition
MOQ basisPer case referenceOne case reference = one case design at one diameter with one movement fitment. Not per order, not per movement family, and not per alloy
Pilot MOQ100 pcs per referenceSeveral references can share one pilot slot, but each reference still carries its own 100
Serial MOQ300 pcs per referenceBelow 300 we quote a CNC prototype run instead of a serial run
Minimum per finish50 pcs per reference, per finishEvery distinct PVD colour, brushing or polishing variant is batched and counted separately
A second movementDoes not raise the MOQA different movement inside the same case family changes the fitment drawing and the stem height, not the quantity
A second materialDoes not raise the MOQ904L and Grade 5 titanium change the unit price and the machining time, not the 300-piece minimum
Sample piecesNot counted toward MOQCharged as a sample fee, and never offset against — or added to — the serial quantity
Tooling & fixturesOne-time, quoted per projectCharged only where new moulds or fixtures are needed. Ownership transfers to you on payment. Not amortised into the unit price unless you ask for it
Sampling — existing programme7–14 business daysStarts after drawing and DFM sign-off. Colour, logo and finish revisions on a programme already running
Sampling — new CNC programme15–25 business daysStarts after drawing and DFM sign-off. Any new architecture, interface or diameter
Mass production45–60 calendar daysStarts after sample approval, not after the order. Add 5–10 days where new tooling is required
TransitNot includedQuoted separately against your destination and Incoterm

Quantities and durations here apply to watch cases. Bezels with moulded ceramic or forged carbon inserts, and any engraved or laser-marked decoration, may carry a separate minimum and an additional 5–10 days — both are stated in the quote, not discovered at shipment.

QUALITY & ACCEPTANCE

What We Inspect, What You Receive, and Where the Standard Stops

"Zero defect" is not an acceptance criterion — you cannot reject a shipment with it. Below are the checks that actually run: the pressure and the hold time, the share of the lot each one covers, what happens to a lot that fails, and the documents you can hold us to.

CheckCoverageMethod, pressure and hold time
Case geometryFirst article, then AQL 1.0 per lot3D optical CMM, ±0.002 mm on nominated dimensions, reported per lot
Water resistance100% of every lotAir-decay differential first, then hydrostatic at 125% of rated pressure held 10 minutes. First article and 1 in 100 also held at rated pressure for 2 hours
Crystal, crown, caseback seals100% of every lotPneumatic decay before the case is sealed, immersion check after — both logged per serial number
External appearance100% of every lot10x optical inspection in a Class 10,000 cleanroom, against the signed limit sample
Finish and colourAQL 1.0 per lotSide-by-side under D65 lighting against the physical limit sample, never against a screen
Thread engagementAQL 1.0 per lotGo / no-go gauges on caseback and crown tube threads

When a lot fails — four outcomes, in writing

SituationWhat we doWho carries it
Out of tolerance, reworkableReworked to drawing, re-inspected at 100%, re-submitted with a fresh inspection reportUs. The agreed rework time is the only extension to your delivery date
Out of tolerance, not reworkableScrapped and replaced. Replacements carry new serial numbers and a new pressure logUs — at our cost, with no charge added to the order
Cosmetically inside the limit-sample bandShipped only with a written concession you sign before dispatch — never on our judgement aloneYour call, with a price adjustment agreed in writing first
Rejected at your incoming inspectionRe-sort, replacement or credit — whichever you chooseUs, including return freight, where the defect is confirmed

No lot leaves with an open deviation. A concession exists only as a document you sign, and a rejected lot is never negotiated down into a discount.

Documents you can ask for

  • Dimensional inspection report — CMM output on the dimensions you nominate, not a generic certificate
  • Pressure test log — air-decay and hydrostatic readings per serial number, with the pressure and hold time used
  • Material test report (MTR) — mill heat number and chemical composition for the alloy used
  • Finish limit sample — a physical approved piece, signed off at sampling and kept as the reference for every later batch
  • Sampling plan — ISO 2859-1, General Inspection Level II, AQL 1.0 for major and 2.5 for minor defects is our default. A tighter level can be written into the purchase order
  • Non-conformance report — root cause and corrective action on any lot that fails, issued within 5 working days
  • Concession record — if any unit ships against a deviation, the signed record travels with the lot
  • Third-party pre-shipment inspection — your own inspector or lab is welcome at final inspection

On ISO 6425 and ISO 22810: both are standards for a finished watch, not for a case on its own. What we test and certify at case level is the pressure integrity — the case is sealed and taken to its rated pressure and beyond. Full diving-watch conformity additionally depends on the movement, dial, hands, bezel markings and assembly, and is established on the assembled watch by you or a third-party laboratory. Treat a case-level pass as one necessary input, never as a diving-watch certificate.

HOW EACH CHECK ACTUALLY RUNS

5-Stage Quality Assurance Verification

Every production lot gets 100% dry pneumatic and 100% wet hydrostatic immersion testing. Case-level testing follows the pressure clauses of ISO 22810 and ISO 6425 — full conformity is a property of the assembled watch, not of the case alone.

STAGE 01

3D Optical CMM Metrology

High-precision optical coordinate measuring machines verify all 42 critical case dimensions against 2D CAD engineering blueprints.

Accuracy: ±0.002 mm
STAGE 02

Air Vacuum Leak Decay

Dry pneumatic differential pressure testing inspects crystal, crown tube, and caseback seals before hydrostatic immersion.

Method: Witschi Pneumatic
STAGE 03

Hydrostatic Chamber Test

Submerged in calibrated hydraulic pressure chambers up to 50 ATM (500 meters) to confirm structural integrity and gasket sealing.

Testing: 100% Batch Tested
STAGE 04

Condensation Hot-Plate

Case is heated to 45°C with cold water droplet placed on crystal to confirm zero internal vapor condensation.

Standard: ISO 22810 Protocol
STAGE 05

10x Cleanroom Optical QC

Individual microscopic visual inspection under 10x magnification in Class 10,000 cleanroom environments prior to protective vacuum packaging.

Environment: Class 10,000
STRUCTURE VS APPLICATION

Case Structure and Application Options

Two separate questions get answered below, and they should not be read as four parallel types. Case structure is how the case is built — 3-piece, 2-piece screw-back, or monobloc — and it decides where the seals sit and how the case is serviced. Application and design options are what you are building for — dive, chronograph, integrated bracelet — and each adds requirements on top of whichever structure you choose. The cards below are marked Structure or Application accordingly.

01 / MODULAR

Structure — Classic 3-Piece Construction

Bezel, middle case body, and screw-down caseback. Allows dual-tone finishing, exhibition sapphire casebacks, and flexible brand customization.

Water Resistance: 5 to 10 ATM
Ideal For: Dress & Daily Wear
Crystal Mount: Flat / Domed Sapphire
02 / DEEP-SEA

Application — High-Pressure Diver Housing

Reinforced chassis with 120-click uni-directional bezel, screw-down crown with dual Viton seals, and optional helium escape valve (HEV).

Water Resistance: 20 to 50 ATM
Compliance: ISO 6425 pressure clauses (case level)
Bezel System: Ceramic / Sapphire Inset
03 / INTEGRATED

Application — Integrated Bracelet Case

Geometric luxury sport cases with precision-broached integrated lug links, faceted Zaratsu bevels, and seamless hooded ergonomic transitions.

Water Resistance: 10 to 20 ATM
Ideal For: Luxury Sports Watches
Lug Tolerance: ±0.008 mm
04 / CHRONOGRAPH

Application — Multi-Pusher Chronograph Housing

Complex multi-axis CNC profiles with precision-threaded pusher sleeves, internal movement spacer rings, and cushion/tonneau case contours.

Water Resistance: 5 to 15 ATM
Calibers: SW500 / NE88 / Quartz
Pusher Type: Screw-Down / Pump
SIZE RANGE & WRIST FIT

Watch Case Diameters: 26 mm to 50 mm

Eight standard diameter tiers, each mapped to the lug width, case thickness, watch category and wrist circumference it usually serves.

8Standard diameter tiers
26–50mm machining envelope
12–26mm lug width range
6Case shape families
Case DiameterLug WidthCase ThicknessTypical Watch CategoryWrist Fit
26–28 mm12–14 mm6–8 mmLadies' dress, vintage re-edition135–165 mm
30–32 mm14–16 mm7–9 mmUnisex dress, vintage tank145–170 mm
34–36 mm16–18 mm8–10 mmClassic dress, compact dive155–180 mm
37–38 mm18–20 mm9–11 mmEveryday dress, field watch160–185 mm
39–40 mm20 mm10–12 mmSport, GMT, mid-size diver165–195 mm
41–42 mm20–22 mm11–13 mmMainstream diver, chronograph170–200 mm
43–45 mm22–24 mm12–15 mm50 ATM tool diver, pilot180–210 mm
46–50 mm24–26 mm14–18 mmOversize professional, bullhead190–220 mm

These tiers are our standard tooling envelope, not a limit. Diameters outside 26–50 mm, asymmetric lug angles and non-standard lug widths are machined to drawing. All figures are case-only: total height increases once a domed or box crystal and the caseback are fitted.

SILHOUETTE · CUTTER PATH · SEAL GEOMETRY

Watch Case Geometries & Silhouette Engineering

From traditional circular dress profiles to complex 8-faceted monobloc sport housings. Each silhouette dictates CNC cutter-path orientation, bezel seal tolerances, and multi-facet hand finishing boundaries.

FIG. 01 — ARCHETYPAL

Round Case

CLASSIC DIVER / DRESS

Universal axisymmetric geometry with the most even hoop-stress distribution of any silhouette, which is why most dive cases are round. The depth rating is assessed per drawing and confirmed on the pressure-tested sample — the shape itself carries no ATM figure.

Machining Setup Single-Spindle Turning · 5-Axis Lug Milling
Movement Fitment ETA 2824 · SW200 · NH35 · Miyota 9015
Standard Diameters Ø 36.0 mm — 44.0 mm
FIG. 02 — CURVED FLANK

Cushion / Pillow

VINTAGE DIVER / MILITARY

Quad-convex perimeter with fluid ergonomic wrist contouring. Seamless transition from convex flanks to shrouded integrated lugs with no sharp internal corners.

Machining Setup Continuous Curvature 5-Axis Flank Profiling
Movement Fitment Valjoux 7750 · SW500 · NE88 · SW200
Standard Diameters 41.0 × 44.0 mm Lug-to-Lug
FIG. 03 — SCULPTURAL

Tonneau / Barrel

LUXURY SPORT / SKELETON

Three-dimensional curved barrel casing. Demands multi-axis simultaneous milling to maintain uniform crystal perimeter compression across double-curved sapphire gaskets.

Machining Setup Simultaneous 5-Axis 3D Cam Contouring
Movement Fitment Skeletonized Calibers · Form Movements
Standard Dimensions 38.0 × 48.0 mm (Curvature Depth 12.8 mm)
FIG. 04 — ORTHOGONAL

Square & Tank

AVANT-GARDE / ARCHITECTURAL

Strict 90-degree geometry with precision corner stress-relief radii. Engineered with custom square fluoropolymer gaskets to prevent corner pressure concentration leaks.

Machining Setup High-Speed End-Milling · EDM Corner Sparking
Movement Fitment ETA 2671 · Sellita SW100 · Quartz Thin Calibers
Standard Dimensions 34.0 × 34.0 mm · 38.0 × 38.0 mm
FIG. 05 — 8-FACET INTEGRATED

Octagonal Faceted

INTEGRATED BRACELET SPORT

Eight razor-cut facet edges with continuous horizontal graining that aligns perfectly with integrated first-link bracelet endpieces. Micro-machined screw-through bezel anchors.

Machining Setup Rotary Indexing 5-Axis Edge Milling (±0.003 mm)
Movement Fitment Ultra-thin Automatic Calibers · SW300 · ETA 2892
Standard Diameters Ø 39.0 mm — 42.0 mm
FIG. 06 — OFFSET AXIS

Asymmetric / Bullhead

MOTORSPORT / SPECIALIST DIVER

Offset crowns at 4-o'clock, destriero left-hand crowns, or 12-o'clock bullhead pushers. Engineered with custom multi-axis fixturing to eliminate stem tube binding during casing.

Machining Setup Custom Angle-Tilted CNC Fixtures · Dual Tube Boring
Movement Fitment Seiko NE86 · Valjoux 7750 Bullhead Modification
Standard Diameters Ø 42.0 mm — 45.0 mm Wedge Profile
Technical exploded view of custom watch case components and mating interfaces
ENGINEERING TOLERANCES & METROLOGY

Micron-Level Mating Interfaces

A luxury watch case acts as an environmental vault for delicate mechanical calibers. A 0.01 mm variance in movement seat height or stem tube alignment can cause winding friction or water ingress. Fullion enforces strict dimensional standards across every interface.

Interface Element Critical Function Tolerance
Movement Ring Seat Zero axial play for Swiss & Japanese calibers +0.010 / -0.000 mm
Stem Tube Bore Friction-free crown rotation and winding ±0.005 mm
Crystal Seat Step Uniform I-ring Teflon gasket compression ±0.008 mm
Caseback Thread Pitch Smooth torque and 50 ATM pressure seal Class 6g/6H Metric
Lug Hole Symmetry Gapless solid end-link fitment ±0.010 mm
CERTIFIED HOROLOGICAL ALLOYS

Case Materials & Metallurgy

We source certified mill billets from ISO-compliant metallurgy foundries with full Material Test Reports (MTR) and chemical spectrometry verification. Density, hardness and composition figures on these cards are typical values for the grade — the binding numbers are the ones on the mill certificate for your heat, which travels with the shipment.

AUSTENITIC STEEL

316L & 904L Stainless Steel

Low-carbon surgical grade and superalloy stainless steel with high molybdenum content, delivering exceptional anti-perspiration and saltwater corrosion resistance.

• Density: 8.00 g/cm³
• Hardness: 200 - 240 HV
• Finish: Zaratsu & Satin Brush
AEROSPACE ALLOY

Grade 5 Titanium (Ti-6Al-4V)

45% lighter than steel with superior tensile strength and hypoallergenic skin-neutral comfort. Ideal for high-spec diving timepieces and modern sports watches.

• Density: 4.43 g/cm³ (Ultralight)
• Hardness: 350 HV
• Finish: Bead-Blasted & DLC
LIVING PATINA ALLOY

CuSn8 Marine Bronze

Premium German and European specification tin-bronze alloy that develops a unique self-passivating patina over time, highly prized by collector editions.

• Alloy: 92% Copper / 8% Tin
• Color: Warm Rose-Gold Hue
• Finish: Brushed / Antique Pre-Aged
COMPOSITES & CERAMICS

Forged Carbon & Zirconia Ceramic

Compression-molded marbled carbon fiber and scratch-proof zirconium oxide (ZrO2) ceramic bezels rated at 1500+ Vickers hardness for extreme wear resistance.

• Ceramic Hardness: 1500+ HV
• Carbon: Random Marbled Grain
• Finish: Diamond Polished / Matte
METROLOGY · HAND-CRAFTED ARTISANRY

Horological Surface Finishing & Diamond Treatments

High-end watch cases are defined by the razor-sharp geometric boundary between contrasting finishes. We combine automated 5-axis robotic prep with master hand-lap polishing to maintain crisp facet lines without edge roll-off. Ra values shown are typical results on 316L — surface roughness is verified on your physical sample, not promised from a table.

SPECULAR DISTORTION-FREE
FINISH 01 Ra ≤ 0.02 μm

Zaratsu / Sallaz Mirror Polishing

Executed using the front face of a specialized tin/cast-iron lap wheel with diamond paste. Creates true optical black reflection across lug bevels and case flanks without the distortion or softened edges caused by standard muslin buffing wheels.

Edge Crispness Micro-Geometric Zero Roll-Off
Tooling Cast-Iron Lap · 0.5μm Diamond Paste
Application Chamfers · Lug Bevels · Bezel Rims
DIRECTIONAL MICRO-GRAIN
FINISH 02 Ra 0.35 — 0.45 μm

Linear & Radial Satin Brushing

Calibrated 240 to 400-grit micro-grooving applied parallel along case flanks, longitudinally down lugs, or circular sunburst on bezel tops. Every scratch line remains strictly parallel under 10x binocular inspection with zero cross-grain drift.

Grain Consistency 100% Parallel Micro-Grooves
Tooling Non-Woven Scotch-Brite · Diamond Paper
Application Case Flanks · Lug Tops · Bezel Flats
TACTICAL DIFFUSE MATTE
FINISH 03 Ra 0.80 — 1.20 μm

Micro-Bead & Ceramic Blasting

Pneumatic projection of microscopic glass beads or ceramic spheres (50 to 100 μm) in automated rotary pressure chambers. Imparts a velvety, anti-glare tactical finish ideal for military, aviation, and Grade 5 titanium tool watch cases.

Light Dispersion Complete Non-Reflective Diffusion
Media Spheroid Zirconia · Soda-Lime Beads
Application Pilot Watches · Titanium Dive Housings
3,000+ VICKERS DIAMOND COATING
FINISH 04 Thickness 2.5 — 4.0 μm

Vacuum PVD & DLC Diamond Carbon

High-vacuum cathodic arc deposition producing true Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) hardness exceeding 3,000 HV. Extreme scratch and chemical corrosion resistance available in deep obsidian black, gunmetal, 18K yellow gold, and rose gold.

Hardness Rating 3,000 — 4,500 Vickers (HV)
Process Vacuum Arc · Magnetron Sputtering
Color Tints Obsidian Black · Gunmetal · Rose · Yellow Gold
SURFACE TOLERANCE GUARANTEE ±0.005 mm Boundary Line Preservation
SURFACE ROUGHNESS METROLOGY Mitutoyo Surftest SJ-410 Certified
CLEANROOM DEBURRING Class 10,000 Ultrasonic 5-Stage Degrease
DUAL-TONE MASKING Precision UV-Cured Photoresist Masking
REFERENCE DESIGNS

Watch Case References Ready to Adapt

Every reference below is already tooled and machined in our own facility. Open a design to review dimensions, material and finishing, or send your own CAD for a custom quotation.

FROM THE WORKSHOP

Watch Manufacturing Insights

Technical notes from our engineering team on case construction, alloy selection and what it really costs to take a watch brand from drawing to production.

ENGINEERING FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to common technical, prototyping, and production inquiries from watch founders and technical product managers.

READY TO PROTOTYPE? • BILATERAL NDA PROTECTED

Have a Watch Case Blueprint or 3D CAD File?

Send your STEP, IGES, or 2D technical drawings for a 24-hour engineering feasibility review, DFM consultation, and transparent itemized quote.